Pucón paradise

The only time I read a kayak magazine was when I got it for free after purchasing a decent amount of goods online. The magazine lay there, on my dining table, for months probably, untouched. Until at some point I moved it to the toilet, and I started reading it.

One of the stories was about the early days, when kayakers were only discovering the vast amount of rivers Chile had to offer. Some pioneering kayakers moved to Pucón to explore and by doing that, they opened up an area that has now become a mecca for kayakers, with multiple challenging rivers within day trip distance. After my short visit earlier this year, I envision staying in Pucón for a couple of months. Let’s see what the fuss is about.

The weather gods aren’t very welcoming to me during my first week in Pucón as it rains every day. For the most part I’m the only person staying at the campsite. It takes me a few days to get in touch with some paddlers, but when I do, it immediately works out great. Local kayaker and raft guide Patricio is willing to take me to the río Trancura and show me the lines. It’s an amazing river, especially now that the water level is high. The lower section is a bit short however, but we solve that by doing two or three laps a day. It’s a great river for me to practice and improve my skills while not completely pushing my limits. I’m actually being very thoughtful about this now. I’m taking it one step at a time, aiming to move forward, but at my own pace, focusing on technique rather than adrenaline.

After a couple of days Patricio joins me when I team up with another group of kayakers who have invited me to paddle the río Zahuil. It’s a good thing I brought Pato with me, since the guy who invited me, never actually talks to me. It is one of the strangest thing ever..

But whatever, we’re a big group of 12 kayakers so plenty of other people to interact with, and the river is a fun class III river run. So all in all definitely worth going.

After a week on the empty camp site I move into Étnico eco hostel in town where I get a pretty sweet deal on accommodation that saves me from having to spend more rainy nights in the back of my car. Having travelled a lot during the first six months in South America I’m super keen on doing it differently this second half, and during the first weeks I don’t move much further than the Lower Trancura, slowly settling into a routine, while making new friends along the way.

As the weather steadily improves to sunshine-only conditions, Romi and Basti join and their friends join Pato and me on an almost daily basis, as they are training to be hydrospeed guides and exams are up in a month or so. I also meet Guillermo, an amazing paddler who has a Dutch girlfriend from Limburg. He gives me his last stroopwafel, which immediately makes us friends for life.

I enjoy slowly becoming part of the Pucón kayak scene. It feels good to have a base and not move every so many days. And even though there’s no denying that there is a tremendous age-gap between and my generally much younger friends, I love tapping into the limitless energy that comes with their age. I love being surrounded by these young kids. Aways restless and sometimes reckless, full of energy, and enthusiasm for just about anything.. I love it. Some people my age pretend they still have that, you’ll hear them say You’re only as old, as you feel or Age is just a number, but that level of enthusiasm and/or recklessness is something I’ve definititely lost.

Simultaneously, however, I feel the need to set my own limits to stay within my own comfort level. So even when they are trying to get me to paddle harder rivers, I stick to the Lower Trancura as it is a perfect training ground for me.